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(zz) 我为旅行狂－－－New Orleans行走(2009/6/2)

鉴于新奥尔良的名气,以及为了答辩之前的小小身心放松.一个短周末的时间,让我们用来行走于NO之内.和大多数的人的感受相似,不是很喜欢这样的城市, 喧闹疯狂伴着小小的脏乱.不过它毕竟还是很不一样,所谓各种生活方式的领略在于亲身的体会.一个周末的短短消遣还是时有所值.行走路线以及时间安排在此奉上,以便各亲朋之用:
周六早上不用很早的起来,毕竟NO的看点在于夜晚.所以大家可以吃过午饭再出发.不过, 在去NO的路上有个非常有名的餐馆,叫做Middendorf's Restaurant.它开于1934年,最有名的菜肴是fried thin catfish.我们两点赶到的时候,还有一堆的人等在外面牌号.很多人驱车若干小时慕名而至.所以大家若是也想尝一尝,就要9点上路.
吃过午饭开向NO,路经Army Marine Exhibition.驻足大概一个小时,看看海上舰队的陈列.也是十分的壮观.之后一个小时到达french quarter住下.华灯还未初上,在NO的downtown和南来北往的游客一起观赏一下这个曾经的法租之地.沿着密西西比河感受一下河畔风光.杰克逊 广场周围的繁华,历史的印记,马车穿行的街道.随处可见的街头艺人.最有意思的是在广场后面,一排排的算命师整整齐齐地练摊子,正对着大教堂.每个算命师都打扮地像个巫婆,盯着南来北往的游客看. NO的建筑特色要数一排排的低矮耸肩楼房,据说很多都有上百年的历史.不太了解为什么他们能够抗的过年复一年的洪水猛兽.几乎每幢房子外面都有回廊,回廊上面都有各式的吊兰植物,甚是美丽.此外,NO的地上悬棺也是很有特色,为的是防止洪水冲垮了祖先的坟墓.一片片地连起来,还颇有点陵园的味道.

到了晚饭的时间,记得尝尝NO有名的Muffeletta.几乎在French Quarter里的任何一个餐厅都有.一个超级大的sandwich,要好几个人分才能吃得完.味道很特别.听着街头艺人的jazz,喝着啤酒,嚼着当地 特色的食物.看着华灯初上熙攘的城市,别有一番风味.晚饭之后,就是NO夜的疯狂.大名鼎鼎的burnbon street, 用Dr Petrolia的话说就是"extremely dirty".呵呵,真的是少儿不宜.我们还是级别太低,胆子太小,之前信誓旦旦,后来连strip club的门都不敢多看一下.结果被老妈鄙视了一路.整条街上人们都被灌满了十分的醉意,各种胆大的图像语言充斥着耳目,有各式各样的年轻男女向你抛洒珠子,拉扯你的衣袖劝你同醉同归,震耳欲聋的疯狂音乐和欢呼声.....不到2个小时,没有喝一滴酒,我就逃了.
休息了一晚.清晨的NO还没有从昨夜的疯狂中清醒过来.French Market已经悄然热闹起来.FM是一个露天的交易市场.有当地各种的小商品以及世界各地的旅游纪念品.挺像国内的大排档,东西也很便宜.适合逛来消 遣.午饭之后便是回程了.回程的路上经过Oak Alley Plantation,300年历史的橡树庄园.如果不需要tour的讲解,是不需购买门票的.在庄园里信步,体会一下百年历史的轮回感觉,以及时空的穿 梭.很有18世纪法国苏利.普吕多姆笔下<<孤独>>和<<灵感>>的韵味儿.贵族的气息和点点没落的遗憾.
之后在海鲜市场停留,买上一打的活蟹(14$),再过个3小时就到了家.刚好赶上晚饭时间.清酒煮蟹黄,明月皓舍扬.美餐之后,短时的周末新奥之旅就划上 美满的句号了.
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