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(zz) 我为旅行狂---Grand Canyon惊鸿之撇(2010年5月6日--9日)

对于黄石,大峡谷,还有大瀑布的狂热执着,我们终于在上周末实现了三分之一的圆梦计划.其中要鼎立感谢我家本田20小时不遗余力地勤劳工作.这其中要对家庭成员熊宝未能加入深表遗憾.这其中要对在母亲节作出卓越贡献的老妈送上经久不息的热烈掌声。
大峡谷国家公园在美国西部亚利桑那州,以横贯其中的科罗拉多河在亿万年间切割出的大峡谷而闻名世界,大峡谷总长446公里,最宽处近30公里,最深处1600米。河水切出的岩石断壁纵跨地球形成过程中逾10亿年的历史.这条著名的峡谷由安静流淌在谷底的科罗拉多河用600万年的光阴一点点切割而成.河水层层切割出的岩石断面展现了从20亿年前至今的地球形成史...这些数字,不免让人觉得生硬.真正的感受,数字又确实无法衡量.只有你亲身站在绝壁边,放眼这浩瀚的旷世奇景,才能从心底里发出对造物的由衷赞叹.
                                    

大峡谷不只是一道深深的山谷,宽阔的峡谷中,层层叠叠还有许多陡峭的山体和峭壁,形态千变万化。这一带山体呈红褐色,纵横数十里的视线被大气朦胧着,恍然如视沙漠中的海市蜃楼。这就是大峡谷最著名的风光之一沙漠全景(Desert View)。我们于峡谷的南缘驻车,开始徒步地探寻这一派奇观绝景,5月的时节对于峡谷来讲还是分外温柔的,可惜色彩略显单薄.远远地向峡谷对面北缘眺去,依稀见得松绿的植被开始悄然萌动.北缘也是有游人的吧,像我们一样感叹着自然的力量,膜拜着这绝对浑然天成的奥妙.

去谷底只有两个办法,走路或者骑骡子。骑骡入谷,是大峡谷上百年来长盛不衰、最具风景的一项活动。不过,在骡背上摇晃着,随着骡队前进,在山崖边毫无规则而又及其狭窄的小道上下行,亟需勇气。换上登山靴,将水瓶塞进行囊,步行才是惟一的可能。从南缘步行曲折下行至科罗拉多河畔,再从彼地盘旋上行到北缘,一共需要整整两天的时间.这让众多的探寻着望而却步,也让大峡谷的浩瀚更沁染人心.
大峡谷的小道,多数是在山崖上硬用炸药炸出的小径,盘旋曲折。到达平衡些的地方回头看,刚刚走过的路好像一丝细线嵌在直上直下的山崖之上,线上那些缓慢移动的小点就是想要征服自然的人们。若是走过一处转角,眼前便会豁然开朗,山势壮丽,谷中云雾蒸腾.峡谷内就有驻足点,因为路过此地的人都会“唔哇”地感叹,所以得名“唔哇点”(Ooh-aah Point)
峡谷内的植物分外单一.然而我们意外地发现.在小学教科书中出现的尺蠖,居然活生生出现在了眼前.这个红色circle里面的就是尺蠖了.居然真的真的和树枝是一模一样的啊,要不是不小心碰到它,然后它分外快速而柔软得卷曲了它的身体,我是不能相信它是动物,而又真的如此会伪装自己的.真是大收获,大收获啊..
峡谷的落日不同于海边,不同于崇山峻岭.这美,应该是源自内心.老藤和昏鸦倒是并无多少,可枯树满目皆是.20亿年,这概念太难在心里消化了.这浩日,依旧升,依旧降,依旧演绎轮回,依旧给年轻的人们,展示峡谷的种种.
   


清晨的峡谷,更加彰显了世界七大自然景观的况美绝情.露营之后的深夜还未偃息清冷,红日便开始跨过科罗拉多河畔,不分南北地挥洒金容.日渐升高,唤醒静默的层峦叠嶂,暖暖地照着,轻轻地抚慰着.空气中是树木的芬芳,还有清风猎猎。深海的邃蓝是刹那的逸动,随之将上的是姜黄,是金之风范,是橙之雍容,是血红之隽美.无声无息,万静之后的骤变,让眼前轰然充盈起来.这样的变更,是自然每日必行的常理吧,在人们的眼中成了万般感叹的奇迹.脉脉来,默默去.看看这眼前,体味这状景,应不再有什么值得日日抱怨,时时感怀了...

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